Here’s a brief overview of common stats:

1) if you notice that your cat’s ears feel warm, don’t worry! It doesn’t mean s/he’s sick. Cat’s have a body temperature slightly higher than ours – 38 – 39.2C

2) cat respiration varies between 16 and 40 breaths per minute depending on what they’re doing and their heart rate is 120-140 beats per minute

3) cats can run 30 mph!

4) cat moms are called queens and they can have kittens from different fathers in the same litter!

5) NO benefit is derived from letting a cat have a litter before being spayed. She doesn’t appreciate offspring as we do and studies have shown that even having one litter prior to spaying increases the likelihood of mammary cancer later in life. Plus, it just increases the cat over-population problems

6) cats have 30 teeth

7) contrary to some beliefs, cat bites are not poisonous, but like all animals cats have a plethora of bacteria in their mouths which are readily transmitted through bite wounds. Because of the small size and the shape of cats’ teeth, bite wounds usually quickly seal up bacteria within the wound and this can cause dangerous infections very rapidly. Always have a cat-bite wound see by a doctor

8) cats walk on their toes

9) altering a cat (spaying/neutering) does not make a cat gain weight; only too much food and a lack of exercise does that

10) cats have 32 muscles that control the movement of each ear

We’d love to hear from you! Are there any things you’ve heard about cats that you aren’t quite sure are true?  Leave us a comment below.

Check back for

The Top Ten Things You Should Know About Cats : #9

And remember that you can always subscribe to our blog by clicking on the orange RSS feed button to the right. This will let you know every time we update our site.

Before you decide to become responsible for a cat, it is important to know that while all cats have some inherent behaviours in common, and particular behaviours may be common in certain breeds (Siamese are well-known for being talkative, for example), cats also have some behaviours that differ from individual to individual, just like us. In other words, cats have personalities. Some cats like being held, some don’t; some like sitting on laps, some prefer their own bed; some are quiet, others are quite loquacious.

Some people have unrealistic expectations when it comes to cats and the gap between how they think a cat ought to behave and how their cat actually behaves leaves them wondering if they want to continue owning the cat. A study was done at the University of Pennsylvania which determined that a pet owner’s satisfaction with their animal was contingent upon their pet living up to the owner’s expectations of that animal’s behaviour. In other words, if a potential cat owner expects cats to be independent, they will be dissatisfied with their cat if it follows them around wanting attention, and they won’t bond with it. They see the cat as behaving in an un-cat-like manner. It is this disparity between expectations and actuality that often leads cat owners to surrender their pets.

Because each cat has individual needs and wants, each cat will respond differently to what you do – some will want to be petted indefinitely, for example, while others may only like to be petted for a minute. If you engage in behaviours with your cat that s/he doesn’t like what are her/his options for letting you know that you should stop? Meowing, tail wagging, moving away, hissing, scratching, and biting may be some of the signs your cat uses to let you know that s/he doesn’t like what you’re doing. It is important when your cat displays these behaviours that you respect your cat’s request to stop doing whatever you’re doing, even if you think your cat should like it. Unfortunately, some people completely mistake the intentions behind these warning signs and think their cat is just being funny or finicky or aggressive. Unfortunately, unexpected and unwanted, often misunderstood behaviours are the biggest reasons why cat owners surrender or abandon their cats.

Not all cats use the above signs to indicate that they’re unhappy; we had a patient who would wag his tail when he was happy and excited – just like a dog – so, it is important to recognize and respect the individual traits that make your cat who s/he is. Take time to explore your cat’s behaviour and patterns and by doing so, you’ll have a deeper understanding of her/him as an individual and your relationship will expand. If you’re planning on getting a cat, keep an open mind about cat behaviour and be ready to change your expectations.

We’d love to hear from you! What are some of your cat’s personality quirks? Leave us a comment below.

Please have a look at the websites linked below for further information and check back for

The Top Ten Things You Should Know About Cats : #8

And remember that you can always subscribe to our blog by clicking on the orange RSS feed button to the right. This will let you know every time we update our site.

Some factors that influence a cat’s behaviour: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/ask-the-expert/ask-the-expert-dog-and-cat-behavior/factors-determing-a-cats-personality.aspx

The average cat normally weighs between 4 and 5 kilograms and at this weight they can engage in normal cat behaviours – playing, running, jumping up, grooming – including their behinds, jumping down, and stretching. As they gain weight their desire and ability to do some of these things decreases, they often play less or stop jumping up on the bed, for example. Just as with humans, their hearts have to work harder to pump blood around their bodies and they become prone to diabetes. If they continue to gain weight, they stop being able to groom their behinds after going to the bathroom. They have increased incidents of constipation because they aren’t running around and moving their bodies, and their joints begin to suffer the strain of carrying too much weight. An overweight cat equals more trips to the veterinarian for sanitary clips (cleaning up his/her bottom), enemas, pain medication for sore joints, possibly even heart medications, blood tests, and insulin! To diagnose and begin treatment of a diabetic cat, for example, can cost $1,000, plus the upset of your cat having to come in multiple times for blood tests, and your stress at having to inject him with insulin.

We guarantee that your cat doesn’t want to live like that and we know that you don’t want your cat to go through all those vet visits with the accompanying costs. The best way to avoid a chubby kitty is to feed a high-quality food in reasonable portions, and don’t give too many table scraps or treats! As well, make sure to play with your cat every day – get him running around and jumping up and down on the couch or bed if appropriate. Keep him active!

If your kitty is already overweight there is help.

First, stop feeding any extras – treats, human food, etc.

Second, DON’T just give your cat less of his regular food! Decreasing the amount of his food means he’s also getting fewer nutrients and we don’t want that. Plus, loosing weight too quickly can lead to serious and sometimes fatal liver problems.

Third, contact us and we will get your cat started on the path to healthy weight. We’ll start with a full examination, if your cat hasn’t recently had one, get an accurate weight then get him started on our Slim Fit program – a free program guaranteed to get results if our recommendations are followed. Every month you and your cat will meet with Kim or Alison, our technicians, and they’ll outline a program tailored to your cat’s needs as well as your needs, and keep track of your cat’s progress making sure he’s loosing weight at an appropriate rate. Once he has reached his ideal weight, our technicians will offer you a maintenance plan to keep him trim and fit.

Please have a look at the websites linked below for further information and check back for

The Top Ten Things You Should Know About Cats : #7

And remember that you can always subscribe to our blog by clicking on the orange RSS feed button to the right. This will let you know every time we update our site.

Hill’s Pet Food weight analyser                                                              http://www.hillspet.com/weight-management/pet-weight-score.html

We often get calls from clients concerned about their cat because she is drooling, not eating her dry food, has a lump on her cheek, loosing weight, or some combination of these, and inevitably, upon examination, we find that many of these poor cats are in severe pain because of infected gums. Eating becomes too painful for them so they go without food. Can you imagine how horrible that would feel?

In the past, people expected their pet’s breath to get bad as they aged; it was considered to be a “normal” part of aging. Problem is, it isn’t part of the normal aging process. Pets get bad breath for the same reasons that humans do: their gums are infected and their teeth are covered in tartar. Dental issues are not only painful for cats but they can lead to teeth falling out as well as heart, liver, and kidney disease.

There are many things we, as cat owners, can do to prevent most dental problems.

The gold standard for dental care is daily brushing with a child-sized, soft toothbrush or a fingerbrush, using pet toothpaste (not human toothpaste, please!) or just water, along with annual dental examinations by a veterinarian, and dental scaling as needed.

Some cats, however, absolutely refuse to let you brush their teeth, so for them we recommend using a dry food that effectively reduces the amount of tartar build up , such as Royal Canin’s Dental formula or Hill’s Prescription T/D. There are many dental diets on the market but not many have been scientifically proven to prevent dental issues; these two foods have been. Of course feeding one of these diets will only have limited success compared to brushing your cat’s teeth. Like some humans, some cats chew their food more on one side of their mouths than the other, so a dental diet will be successful in lessening formation of tartar on the favoured side of the mouth, but it won’t be as effective on the other side.

The second part of excellent dental health care happens at your cat’s annual check-up; the veterinarian examines your cat’s mouth. She is looking to see if there are any problems with the teeth – broken or loose, if the gums are swollen or red, and if there are any growths in the mouth. If necessary she will recommend a more thorough examination, dental x-rays, and scaling while your cat is anaesthetised.

It is only when your cat is under anaesthetic that a truly thorough examination can be done, so this is part three of providing excellent dental care. During the annual examination we run a blood test that provides us with detailed information about the health of your cat and whether it would be safe for her to undergo anaesthetic. Once we have the results, we can schedule a dental cleaning. Sometimes during this procedure it turns out that we discover abscesses or other problems on the dental x-rays that weren’t obvious in the examination. Conversely, we sometimes discover that what we thought was a big problem turns out to be a simple issue that is quickly and easily dealt with. Some cats need to have teeth removed during this procedure, but don’t worry! We provide her with enough pain medication to ensure she is comfortable and in a few days, she will be able to continue eating her favourite kibbles.

Please have a look at our Resources page for more information on brushing your pet’s teeth and check out the websites linked below for further information. Check back for

The Top Ten Things You Should Know About Cats : #6

Remember that you can always subscribe to our blog by clicking on the orange RSS feed button to the right. This will let you know everytime we update our site.

The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals feline dental health page: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/cat-care/ten-steps-to-dental-health.aspx

Video on brushing your cat’s teeth:                                                                                   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wyudvKceI4A

The American Association of Feline Practitioners page on feline dental health: http://www.catvets.com/healthtopics/wellness/?Id=254

Many cats dislike going to the veterinarian and that feeling starts with the difficulty of getting the cat into the carrier. If we can make this step easier, the entire veterinary experience is usually less stressful for everyone. Please watch this video for some tips: www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAaGJTcX0zI&feature=player_embedded

Cats are most comfortable with the familiar and they can sense our anxiety so try to stay calm and give rewards to encourage positive behaviour; cats do not learn from punishment.

It is important to always put your cat in a carrier when travelling. Cats will bolt and find a small hiding area when startled or frightened; most cats, if not secured in a carrier in the car, will pace throughout the car including under the driver’s feet, trying to find a hiding spot. They will feel more secure, you will be happier, and the drive will be safer if they are confined. Plus, if you are just holding your cat, there is always the danger of his escaping from you and running out into traffic, or running away and getting lost; they may be small, but when startled or frightened, they can be very strong and use their claws to fight their way out of our arms.

Choose a carrier that is sturdy, secure, and easy to carry. The best carriers are hard-sided carriers that open from the top and front, and that can be taken apart in the middle. An easily removable top allows your cat to stay on the bottom half of the carrier for exams; this is especially useful for cats that are fearful and anxious or in pain.

The goal is for your cat to associate the carrier with positive experiences and to enter voluntarily. Leave the carrier open in a room where your cat routinely spends time. Place familiar bedding or clothing, along with treats and toys inside. It may take weeks for the cat to enter willingly, but in time your cat will come to see the carrier as a comfortable bed and safe haven.

On the day of his check up, keep food to a minimum thereby lessening the chance of his getting car sick. When it comes time to travel to the veterinarian, consider using a synthetic pheromone, such as Feiliway, sprayed into the carrier at least 15 minutes prior to travel, to calm your cat.

The carrier should be seat-belted into the car to keep your cat safe during the drive. Some cats like to see out of the carrier while others prefer to have the carrier covered with a towel or blanket. If you are taking a taxi, tell the dispatcher that you have a cat; many taxi drivers will refuse to accept pets in their cabs.

If you know your cat will be anxious upon arrival at the hospital please tell the receptionist when making your appointment and we will do our best to find a dog-free appointment time or upon arrival, we will show you immediately into a quiet exam room if one is available. Keep your cat in the carrier while in the reception area; being in a familiar “cave” makes him less stressed than being out around unfamiliar sights, sounds, and smells.

Once you arrive there are many other things we offer to make the visit less stressful. Don’t hesitate to call and ask for advice or information. 

The holidays can be a wonderful time of year, but they also come with their own set of potential risks and stressors for your pet so we’ve come up with some suggestions to help you get your pet safely and happily through the upcoming season.

We often have many visitors during the holiday season which may be great for us, but may not be for all pets. Some pets are very sensitive to changes in their routine and may not like having more people around. Whether or not your pet likes visitors it is important that each pet has her own safe haven away from noise and confusion with something comforting on which they can sit or lie – a favourite blanket, for example. Let visitors know that when your pet is in that space, she is asking to be left alone. Don’t force your pet to interact with visitors or their pets as this can lead to defensive behaviours such as nipping.

We all know how tempting it is to give your pet a bit of turkey or stuffing when she’s looking at you with her big, brown eyes, but resist! Not only can this result in diarrhea and vomiting, but some foods that are fine for us are toxic to dogs and cats. These include onions in all forms, grapes and raisins, chocolate, alcohol, coffee in all forms, salt, avocado, xylitol, and of course, spoiled foods.

There are many potential problems with plants. Christmas tree water can cause problems so make sure it’s covered up. Many people think that poinsettias are poisonous; they aren’t, but they do cause uncomfortable irritation in the mouth, throat, and intestinal tract when eaten, so keep them and all plants away from pets. Check out the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals for comprehensive information on plants and other items toxic to pets.

Tinsel and ribbons pose a special problem as they can cause a blockage in your pet’s intestines should she eat them, so keep them off the floor and out of your pet’s reach. Instead of tinsel on the tree try some old-fashioned tin Christmas ornaments such as the ones carried by Lee Valley. Also, keep any fragile or mouth-sized ornaments out of your pet’s reach; and, of course, make sure your pet doesn’t get the opportunity to chew on electrical cords.

Remember when taking your pet for a walk that road salt can hurt little feet; try training your pet to wear protective booties or be sure to rinse off her feet when you get home. There are also non-toxic salves such as Paw Guard that you can rub into her foot pads to protect them before going outside.

And finally, remember that car antifreeze is extremely toxic to pets. When filling your car’s anti-freeze container be careful not to spill and make sure your pet isn’t exposed to it.

If you think your pet has ingested something she shouldn’t have, call us right away; the sooner we see her for treatment, the better the outcome. And remember that the Veterinary Emergency Clinic is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week; their number is 416-920-2002.

Any questions? Ask us! We love to share what we know so you can provide your pet with the best care!

This is a common belief and on the surface, it seems to make sense; cats that never go outside are, in theory, not exposed to diseases. So, if an indoor cat seems healthy, why take her to the vet?

As most of us know, cats age faster than humans; a seven year-old cat is 44 in human years, a twelve year-old is 56 , and a sixteen year-old is 80! Skipping one annual examination is like our skipping four years worth of check-ups. Many changes can happen in four years, both for us and for cats, and most of these changes may not have obvious signs or symptoms. For example, we can’t feel when we have high cholesterol or high blood pressure or if our kidneys are loosing some of their functioning. We can look in the mirror everyday and not know that these changes or others are going on inside us.

It’s the same with cats. It is impossible to tell from looking at your cat whether or not her kidneys are functioning well, if her thyroid is working properly, or if she has any lumps forming inside her, for example. In fact, a cat can loose 75% of her kidney function before showing any outward signs of illness. Any of these issues, and others, can arise within a year or less and all of them have serious negative consequences for her. The only way to know if your cat has a developing medical problem, is to have her examined by a veterinarian and to have blood testing done – just like we have.

There are several levels of blood testing that veterinarians recommend ranging from very basic, usually called a basic wellness test, to quite extensive, usually called a complete geriatric test. Which one they suggest for your cat depends on your cat’s age and whether or not she is exhibiting any abnormal signs. Your veterinarian may also recommend testing your cat’s urine, which provides even more information about how well her kidneys are working.

One question we often get asked is what can be done for my cat if the veterinarian finds a developing issue? Can kidney disease be cured? Can liver problems be fixed? Can arthritis be stopped? Some medical conditions and issues can be resolved through medications, specialty diets, and other treatments. Some cannot, but they can be managed and in doing so, you are providing your pet with the chance to live longer and to live more comfortably and pain-free than if her condition or disease were left undiagnosed and untreated.

Some people also believe that it’s not necessary for indoor cats to be vaccinated, and while this may seem to make sense if they are not in contact with other pets that go outdoors, there are three situations that would be problematic if your cat wasn’t protected against the more common viruses and rabies.

First, if you need to board your cat she needs to be up-to-date on vaccines as no boarding facility can let an unvaccinated cat into their facility. We know that many people never intend on boarding their cat, but we have had countless phone calls from clients and non-clients needing vaccine appointments asap because they have an emergency for which they have to go out of town and they have to board their cat. Along with having to deal with an emergency situation, it is really stressful to have to be thinking about getting your cat to the vet for vaccines. Plus, if your cat isn’t current on her vaccines, it may take 5 – 10 days for the vaccination to stimulate her immune system to the point that she is protected; vaccines don’t provide immediate protection.

Second, if your cat becomes ill and needs hospitalization, she will have no protection against common viruses and with her physical resources focused on dealing with whatever illness she has, she is less able to fight off any virus she may be exposed to. While we keep our facilities spotlessly clean and disinfected, just like a human hospital, we have sick patients staying with us and some of these may have respiratory infections that can be spread through sneezing, for example.

Third, as strange as it sounds, there is a small chance that your cat would be exposed to viruses in her own home! It’s possible for other visiting animals to take something unwanted into your home – viruses, fleas, worms – and it’s also possible, but rare, for you to take something into your home on your clothes or hands. The strangest thing we’ve heard at the hospital has been from a few clients over the years who have had bats get into their homes. Bats commonly carry rabies and their bite marks are very difficult to discern so while your cat may not act as if she has a bite anywhere, she may have been bitten. Plus, what cat wouldn’t like to chase and catch a flying thing! If she did, she’s probably been exposed to rabies. Plus, in Canada, keeping your pet up-to-date on the rabies vaccination is mandatory.

These are the reasons we always recommend annual examinations and an appropriate vaccination schedule for indoor cats – to catch potential health issues before they become serious, and to keep vaccinations current in case you have to board her or she has to stay in hospital, and in case she is exposed to viruses in your home.

We are always happy to answer your questions about the benefits of annual examinations for indoor cats, so please feel free to call or email us. Or leave us a comment or question here.

Please have a look at the websites linked below for further information and check back for

The Top Ten Things You Should Know About Cats : #5

And remember that you can always subscribe to our blog by clicking on the orange RSS feed button to the right. This will let you know everytime we update our site.

The American Animal Hospital Association site on the importance of annual examinations          http://www.healthypet.com/PetCare/PetCareArticle.aspx?title=Wellness_Exams

IDEXX Laboratory brochures on the more common health issues affecting cats http://www.idexx.ca/pubwebresources/pdf/en_us/smallanimal/education/client-education/senior-symptom-chart.pdf

http://www.idexx.ca/pubwebresources/pdf/en_us/smallanimal/education/client-education/testing-uncover-feline.pdf

Novartis site on feline kidney disease http://www.felinegood.co.uk/kidney_disease/en/diagnosis.shtml

The Centre For Disease Control site on rabies     http://www.cdc.gov/features/dsrabies/

Did you know that the most common reason people re-home their cat is inappropriate elimination? What a heartbreaking decision to make. Fortunately, in most situations, this isn’t a choice that you have to make.

Cats stop using their litter box for one of two reasons: there is a medical problem or there is an environmental problem that stresses the cat.

Cats are very sensitive to their surroundings and very aware of routines; should either alter, sometimes even minutely, cats will notice the change and possibly become anxious because of it. Subtle changes that we may not even think about might be enough to make a cat feel stressed and therefore begin eliminating inappropriately – changing the type of cat litter, change the location of the litter box, neglecting to remove waste as usual, even rearranging the furniture!

While inappropriate elimination is often caused by stress, there is always the possibility that it is due to a medical problem. Like people, cats can get urinary tract infections that can be quite painful. If they feel pain or irritation every time they urinate they may come to associate the litter box with that pain, and therefore avoid the litter box. They can develop crystals in their urine, which is also very painful; the crystals can clump up and cause a partial or complete blockage, a life-threatening situation that requires immediate attention. They can also develop stones in their bladders. Any one of these medical problems will cause your cat to urinate outside of her litter box.

As soon as your cat begins to eliminate inappropriately contact your veterinarian. We always recommend beginning with an examination of the cat and a thorough history-taking. The veterinarian may want to take a urine sample to check for bacteria and/or crystals so usually we recommend bringing in your cat first thing in the morning, and if s/he has no urine, we can keep them for the day and keep checking their bladder.

Remember, if a cat cries when eliminating, or goes into the box and doesn’t produce any urine or feces, she needs to be seen immediately by your veterinarian. Urinary tract blockages are life-threatening and need to be treated without delay.

Please have a look at the websites linked below for further information and check back next week for

The Top Ten Things You Should Know About Cats: #4

http://www.vet.cornell.edu/fhc/brochures/housesoiling.html

http://www.catinfo.org/?link=litterbox

It is not surprising to most cat owners that cats feel stress – just think of trying to get them into a carrier – but we may not recognize some situations as being stressful, such as strangers (your friends) being in the home, change in furniture arrangements, change in caregiver, and change in feeding schedule.

A recent study has shown that healthy cats can display non-healthy behaviours, such as vomiting, not eating, and eliminating outside of the litter box, when feeling stressed. They can also become aggressive or conversely, become withdrawn and listless.

Also, cats can pine away – stop eating, stop playing – when grieving any type of loss, such as a loss of a long-time cat companion, or the loss of a human companion, including when people give away their cat.

It is important to recognize signs of emotional pain and stress, and to take steps to support your cat through such times. We can recognize emotional pain and stress in cats in the same basic ways as mentioned in our last post: 1) we can assume she is in distress based on the circumstances, for example the loss of her life-time companion; 2) we can recognize behaviour changes as indications of stress and pain. These changes can include aggression, not eating, not interested in the things she used to like – a particular game or toy for example, excessive sleeping, withdrawing, change in vocalisation patterns – meowing more than usual or less than usual, and many others.

We are fortunate to have a great synthetic pheromone product available, Feliway, that is proven to reduce stress in cats, and it can be used for such things as moving, introducing a new pet or baby into the household, calming a cat when she sees cat intruders in her yard, when she loses a family member, and any other emotionally stressful situation. There are also “psychiatric” medications for cats (some of the same ones that are used for humans!), and tranquilizers, should a cat require them. If you notice any of these signs in your cat, please call us so we can help you develop a strategy to help your kitty feel better.

Please check out these links to other sites and check back next week for

The Top Ten Things to Know About Cats: #3

http://researchnews.osu.edu/archive/sickbehavior.htm

http://indoorpet.osu.edu/cats/felinelifestressors/index.cfm

http://manhattancats.com/Articles/Do_Cats_Grieve_for_Other_Cats.htm

http://www.catsinternational.org/articles/overcoming_stress/manifestations_of.html

And now on to the first thing you should know about cats …

#1: Cats Feel Pain

Cats and humans are similar in many ways and one thing we have in common is our ability to feel pain, both physical and emotional.

Cats feel pain for the same reasons we do – they have been injured or have a painful illness, and while they are better at creating endorphins (the body’s natural painkillers) to deal with pain, and we may not recognize that they are in pain (in fact they try their best to hide any indication that they are in pain or injured), they still feel it.

There are two ways to know if your cat is in pain: 1) if it has been injured or has a painful condition or disease, we can rightly assume that she is in pain even if she shows no signs of being uncomfortable. For example, if the cat had gum disease with several bad teeth, she would be in pain; 2) their behaviour changes. These changes include inappropriate elimination, aggression – biting or scratching you, hissing at you, frequent position changes (can’t seem to get comfortable), chattering of teeth when you stroke her face, drooling and not eating (mouth pain), wanting to be left alone, hiding, constant purring (purring isn’t just an indicator of happiness), frequent licking of a specific area, lying with her front arms under her body and with her face touching the floor, weight loss, standing/sitting/walking with a hunched back, a far-away look in her eyes, lack of appetite, and many others.

If your cat has been injured and/or changes her behaviour either gradually or suddenly, call us immediately. It is important to find the source of her pain, and equally important to stop it. It has been proven that eliminating pain speeds recovery, and we are lucky that there are many safe, pain-relieving drugs now available for cats. Please don’t try to “wait-it-out”; contact your vet as soon as you know something is wrong.

Please check out these links to other sites and check back next week for

The Top Ten Things to Know About Cats: #2

http://www.messybeast.com/pain-perception.htm

http://www.cathospitalofchicago.com/online-cat-health-library/pain-recognition-and-management-in-cats/

http://www.pfizeranimalhealth.co.za/runtime/popcontentrun.aspx?pageidref=2509&Area=PAH